On Thursday, Russian President Vladimir Putin on Tiananmen Square together with President Xi Jinping hosted a military parade in honor of the 70th anniversary of the victory of the Chinese people during World War II . The special correspondent of “Kommersant” Andrei Kolesnikov was watching the parade from the rostrum of the guest on the area in the hope to experience strong feelings. Experienced.
Nothing betrayed in Beijing approaching great feast, besides that those who go to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City for several days ran into a cordon of military – both on the ground and under it (I have not worked for more than 20 metro stations in the city center).
– the Forbidden City? Under the ban … – spread his arms Russian-speaking guide in the tourist area Huahoy, a couple of kilometers from Tiananmen Square, and offered to follow better to the wonderful Vietnamese restaurant on the verge of it (apparently, the guide was on contract with the restaurant, not the Forbidden City).
On machines there is no tearing of the soul from the depths of patsanskoy “Thanks to his grandfather for the victory!”. St. George’s ribbon was not met, or at least some of its significant Chinese counterpart. And the “Immortal Regiment” is not fly to the streets of the city.
And because the Chinese do not have the skill to celebrate his victory. For them, it was like the first time. Only now they have decided to declare itself about those 35 million people who died in the war with Japan, which began before the Great Patriotic War (July 7, 1937) and ended later (September 2, 1945).
The morning military parade began at night. To get to the area, I had to leave at 3:40 am, and the parade began at ten. Night Beijing impresses no less than a day. Let its streets are empty only to someone’s team and may, within ten seconds filled with crowds of people who are only the police and the military. And what happens to my eyes. What and why rehearse and rehearse there, clear, of course not.
Some international press center, three kilometers from Tiananmen Square, forming a column of buses with the media, including including international. Control hard or even brutal. Near Framework growing mountain of bottles of water, yogurt, dry rations from the hotel.
But then checking looks at you, collating your face for some reason, the text invitation (gold characters on red), and then says in his hand a bottle of water and offers a nod: “Have a drink!” You drink, he did not have a very confident that everything there is so harmless and that the contents of the bottle are not polyhnet in your stomach after a moment Chamberlain the same red-yellow … and he looks at you very attentively and neuchastlivo expecting that, strictly speaking, you will: Take off you are with him on the air, or simply fall down dead … Of course, this is the easiest way to verify that there for water; but nothing happens and he again nodded: “Take the water can be».
getting light, beating in August hysterical cicadas, which are on the market the Chinese themselves buy into boxes and worn on the chest instead of the player. And you see the sun, and unlike the Chinese does not surprise, and they show it to each other, amazed, like a long time ago have not seen anything like it. And really not seen: it appeared here a couple of days ago, when Beijing and around the factories stopped and stopped to hell vehicular traffic. This is a known history, and the man who recently came to Beijing in time, such as the summer Olympics in 2008, will think it always happens that the sun shines and will shine always shine everywhere to days past the stems, and will be put into misleading him well.
On an area of five in the morning the troops have already entered. They march in rasposledny general’s general, or even run, I’m sitting in the first row of the guest tribune, and from me to them – five meters, not more. And I see that this is not a company, of course not. It is going through, and even people suffering from flour on their faces infinitely strong. This meal “God forbid, do not comply with the order, stay on his feet, blinking at the wrong time, in the end» …
People in civilian clothes, standing on the perimeter of the stands look more military, than those in the ranks.
Only then you realize what a huge bet on China made this parade. As there is no country today is nothing other than this parade. And the fact that the Forbidden City in the past few days is the whole center of Beijing, already so understandable; Strangely enough, that not all of Beijing closed to prepare for the parade.
And even seem to understand why falling Chinese market in recent years: yes, they’re not up to it was, they have a parade to hold everything else then …
Buses in the Plaza discharged musicians military orchestras, soloists choir and cameramen … Recently won a number, skill and weapons: everywhere were the first.
Oh, three hours before the start of the parade from the guest tribune began to ask the toilet. But they have no chance. Excess moisture can only evaporate: the sun heats all ruthless.
The music to warm up the orchestra on the square overlook cleaning machines: the pieces, in my opinion, seventy, apparently by the number of triumphant jubilee years .
On the podium and pulled away. It was, without a doubt, the best people of the Chinese people. And they knew it (betrayed them, first of all, of course, gait, which can not hide was behind unpretentious short-sleeved shirt and pants, so, on the contrary, buried in themselves that folds began, it seemed, not from the ankles and straight from thighs).
The area finally became a bus stop Dozens of buses were planted thousands of people.
Scale parade was quite clear: it should not be an example of post-war history of the world.
Moscow Red Square has seemed to me pretty cozy nest on the background of the great pasture.
One and a half hours before the start in front of me out of the bus landed, the Russian delegation led by the head of the presidential administration Sergei Ivanov and First Deputy Prime Minister Igor Shuvalov, more or less helplessly looked around and walked to one of the stands at the edge of the area. (Later, in front of one of the bilateral meetings with the participation of Vladimir Putin’s Energy Minister Alexander Novak asked Foreign Minister Sergei Lavrov that it is he is tanned “in a parade you?” – “Of course, in the parade. Two hours under the sun. What are you, was not at the parade? “-” No “.-” Happy man! »)
Meanwhile, actively gathered and state leaders. Another thing is that they were few. President of the Czech Republic, the president of Kazakhstan … Leaders of Southeast Asia …
In the center of the square a quarter of an hour there were three sky-blue car with video and movie cameras and their operators, five of which protruded in one hatch. Still standing there, and nobody was driving. Such an attitude towards journalists in China is noteworthy that can not be in the spotlight for a long time. And blue Chinese “seagull” was no exception.
storm of enthusiasm in the stands led to the emergence of Belarusian President Alexander Lukashenko, whose arrival was fixed two monstrous size video screens in the square. President of Belarus immediately known. Or, at least, we had heard. And the applause got mostly Kole, inhumanly fast rising presidential son (it every month more and more like his father, that is, the president of Belarus).
Vladimir Putin brought up the system addresses the guests . Stands short gasp when it occurs, seems to be more for decency.
The first took off his jacket, Alexander Lukashenko. Heat it at 10 am and the truth was already malovynosimoy.
Chinese ceremony was very similar to the Russian. When the flag is raised for the national anthem, older Chinese military singing selectively, clearly not knowing all the words, and embarrassed, it seems each other. The Chinese leader since in Russian delivering his speech, which sometimes did not need to be translated: it became clear what it (meanwhile was also news that the Chinese leader said that the Chinese army will be reduced by 300 thousand. Man, which, however, taking into account its total population is unlikely to rush into the eyes).
here as well as on the Red Square, approvingly applauded every step of the soldier honor guard, took the perimeter …
And only the pioneers in red ties poised far into the sky with fireworks hand was not on the Red Square. And there were.
Yes, the Russian president did not go on his prezidentomobile Red Square for the adoption of the report and the welcome direct participants of the parade. Xi Jinping traveled area, half leaning out the hatch with a strange expression on his face. It seemed that he made it clear too heavy head cocked, something like that, “Oh, nothing special, it’s just a meal, I, half leaning out of the hatch, it is not necessary so to overestimate this event, though, of course, it neryadovoe …”.
Chinese President toured the troops, and a detour memorable greeting women’s battalion. Rather, it was a collective exhale, and even – or rather, a collective groan … in general, is in a dream not dream, if only because that immediately wake up …
I suddenly thought of how and whether originating in some apocalyptic of meaninglessness. Who and what can be had right now to prove this? They know how to march in formation? That is, they have missiles? What the choir able to sing a song? What we are all together?
Xi Jinping at the same time was, of course, absolutely indispensable here. He, like Figaro, arose in several places, reincarnated in-chief of the president’s and vice versa. (And once even, it seemed to me, in person turned).
flew helicopters, planes, were the guards, was machinery, somewhere I’ve seen it, and I had to even remember where.
But then passed the veterans of that war, the Kuomintang and the Communists, mixed in one truck, and those and others, and the meaning of the parade after all already appeared (if it is to reconcile them, perennial enemies, after all fought together against the Japanese – not in vain).
It is good that our parade is held in early May Moscow, rather than in early September in Beijing. The heat, the impression is melted plastic chairs and the people who, in turn, fused to them.
It is obvious that almost all the techniques here, none of those present ever not seen. I looked at opoloumevshih Chinese photographers who now, at this moment, apparently, did not believe that they are all removed.
Foreigners and is comfortable with this.
It is said that the Chinese have shown and what was not in any way in Moscow in May: drones small, medium and extra large. Here they are for some reason, in contrast, even from intercontinental missiles, looked really threatening … And the most unbearable circumstance by the end of the parade, which lasted more than six hours, turned chairs from which guests, young and old, is inexorably slipping and sliding on the floor …
The Apotheosis of advancing, according to the organizers when the aircraft after the air captured pigeons. And they managed to overshadow the sun with their pitiful seemingly bodies.
At the parade ended, including pigeons. One might even say, it broke off.
Something is not enough. Inflated were, of course, wait. Such was the terrible power swing that will kick seemed backhand.
I get out of this human concentration minibus Kazakh delegation (why – still do not understand). Parking was all buses rolled directly into the Forbidden City.
– Wow Forbidden City! – Shouted a middle-aged Kazakh, when the heat is still released under the pressure of the jets of cold air to exit courtyard potolka.- some!
At this time, hence the huge amount of truth travels buses.
But in Moscow, I remembered, buses parked with reporters in the Kremlin.
– And something the Chinese have nothing, and did not show – continued kazah.- We waited on them, waiting for the pigeons … well … but it hits. Military!
– Maybe that’s why not wait? – I, ‘suggested military parade. Everything is strictly …
– Oh, maybe – on.- easily agreed to, means more attention to himself not to draw. And even so attracted. Got it!
And said I:
– And your concert is?
I assured him that otherwise could not be.
– So maybe your and our (Nursultan Nazarbayev, President Kazahstana.- A. To. ) will not let go, with a pick? – He said thoughtfully kazah.- And then we have 15 hours flight is … And I would like to buy a cup of tea …
And it so happened. He left.
Vladimir Putin and Xi Jinping, and did not leave the whole day. If about one can say that all the time a colleague was on the right hand, something about the other – all the time on the left. And neither did a step ahead of the others. They seem to be specially watched it and walked like soldiers on parade.
– You are what you want, – told me a completely Russian-speaking Egyptian journalist from Cairo (and not from Moscow) .- However, a signal! And this – the main thing in the parade! Watch out for your feet!
He noted also that in the parade participated company of the Egyptian guard. These were the only Arabs in the past day in Tiananmen Square.
– This is the signal! – I warned the Egyptian zhurnalist.- Egypt will soon be in the SCO! A year ago, the global rules of the game have changed … the United States is no longer the same … it’s a long story …
And he told me it all.
At the dinner, Vladimir Putin and Xi Jinping also sat together. This day gave matsutaki vegetable soup, steak in vanilla sauce and pistachio in shrimp sauce and baked cod in wine sauce.
diners say, mostly in silence hungry. The Chinese leader, however, wondered why he was the parade saluted with his left hand. He explained that he had in the car handrail, for which he was held, under the right features.
El-he, of course, both.
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